Monday was expected to be a rainy day so we planned on doing
lots of indoor things. After breakfast we headed out to find that it had rained
pretty hard over night, leaving lots of puddles behind, but it was nice for the
time being.
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Interesting to see layers of bricks, covered with rock and dirt that make up the roads in Rome. |
Our walk to the Pantheon brought us by some more ancient
ruins, after reading the signs around the fenced area we discovered that these were
the ruins of the buildings being used as the Senate back in 44 BC and the
location where Julius Caesar was assassinated.
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There was probably around a dozen rats that were roaming around these ruins |
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Building 1 is where Julius Caesar was assassinated |
I was excited to see the Pantheon as it’s probably the most
amazing piece of Roman architecture still standing today. Built back in 126 AD
by Emperor Hadrian, it had the largest dome in the world until 1436, and is
still the largest unreinforced concrete dome today. Today the Pantheon is almost
completely intact, missing only the exterior veneer marble and the bronze roof
tiles from the porch area which were taken down to be reused at St. Peter’s Basilica.
The Pantheon is based on a perfect circle, being as wide as
it is tall; 142’ from floor to roof top, and 142’ from side to side, and the
only light comes from the oculus, which is the hole in the very top of the
dome.
To make the walls, the Romans would use thousands of bricks
to make a shell, and then filled it in with concrete. The outside of the brick
shell would then be given a marble veneer. They would embed in the walls “blind
arches” where the bricks would be laid in the form of an arch to add support to
the walls. In the Pantheon, the walls at the base of the dome are 20’ thick and
up at the top of the dome the concrete is less than 5’ thick.
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You can see some of the "blind arches" in this picture |
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During construction of the Pantheon the Romans had to deal
with the weight of the massive dome. To do this the dome gets thinner as it
gets higher, they would also mix different stones in the concrete at different heights
to make it lighter as it went up; granite near the base of the dome and pumice
at the top. On the inside of the dome the concrete is coffered, which not only
gives an architectural element, but it takes away from the weight of the dome
without compromising the strength of it. Scaffolding was built on the interior and wooden forms were created for pouring the concrete dome.
Due to the large hole in the roof, if it rained, you could
get wet. Because of this the Romans made the floor sloping with holes in the
floor so the water could drain. The floor was made of marble and still holds
the same design that it did when it was originally made; alternating circles
and squares. Most of the floor has been replaced over the years though, due to
continuous use for the last couple thousand years.
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You can see the lower roof line of the porch area, compared to where it was supposed to be
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On the outside you can see where the original design was
supposed to have the roof of the porch, but the 16 columns which are solid red
and grey marble are around 40’ tall, which is probably some 20’ shorter then
they needed to be. They came all the way from Egypt, and took many months to
get there, so they just adjusted the roof line as you see it.
The Pantheon has been in use since its construction, being
given to the Pope and the Catholic Church in the 7th century, when
it was transformed from a pagan temple to a church. There are several people
buried in the Pantheon, including Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino (Raphael) the well-known
painter, who requested to be buried there just days before he passed away. The inscription on his sarcophagus reads: Here lies Raphael, by whom Nature feared to be outdone while he lived, and when he died, feared that she herself would die.
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I have a hole in my chin |
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All around the city there are drinking fountains, all with a different look. |
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There are also lots of these little booths around that have a police officer in it. |
We got finished with our audio tour faster than I thought we
would so we headed nearby to a piazza to check out a few shops. In the piazza
we discovered a few fountains, and Nathan was enjoying taking some cool
pictures of the water.
Finally it was nearing lunch time. We had planned on going
to the pizza place recommended to us by the guy at our hotel. But after
searching the area he told us it was in, we found nothing. We even asked some
people in shops if they knew where it was, but the one guy that knew of it didn't speak very good English. We ended up just picking a restaurant near us, as our feet were really
starting to bother us and we needed to sit down.
Unfortunately the place we picked wasn’t a good one. The
food was probably a 5 out of 10, so not bad, but the waiters were arguing over
an awning that got burnt by a heater and so that is what we had to listen to most of our
lunch, which wasn’t pleasant.
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The statue of St. Michael |
After lunch we headed towards the Vatican to St. Peter’s
Basilica. Luckily the security line wasn’t very long so it only took about
15-20 minutes to get in.
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The Holy Door
or 'Porta Sancta' is only open during a Holy Year (Jubilee), which
occur every 25 years (the last one in 2000). On the first
day of a holy year, the Pope strikes the brick wall with a silver
hammer and opens it to the pilgrims. |
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The upper and lower statues are different sizes, the one up high is almost twice as big but both seem to be about the same size from the floor. |
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This red circle is where Constantine was crowned |
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These stairs go down to the crypt where several Popes are buried. |
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It's hard to believe that the white dove in the center of the stained glass window is 6' tall. |
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Statue of St. Peter. Many people will rub or kiss his feet, and after so many years, his feet are smooth and you can't even tell that he once had toes. |
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The bronze on this canopy was taken from the porch of the Pantheon when it was given to the church. |
St. Peter’s is 500 feet wide and 730 feet long, making it the
largest church in the world. Build between the years of 1506 and 1626, it is
believed to be built on top of the location where Jesus’s apostle Peter was
crucified (upside down as he didn’t feel worthy to be killed in the same manner
as his master). His bones are also believed to be buried below the church.
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Picture depicting Peter being crucified upside down. |
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Michelangelo's Pietà |
Built back in 1483, The Sistine Chapel is considered the
church of the Pope. The Sistine Chapel is famous for its paintings on the
ceilings and walls by Michelangelo. Although he first rejected the opportunity to
paint the ceiling (saying he was a sculptor, not a painter), he eventually gave in after much persistence by the Pope. It
took Michelangelo 4 years to complete the painting of the ceiling and upper
walls, but the alter wall of the last judgment was done at a later date and
took him an additional 7 years.
Painted while standing on scaffolding looking up, it nearly
killed him off. I can imagine how much he must have needed a chiropractor as my
neck got tired of just looking up at it for 20 minutes. Michelangelo painted
with a new technique. He had helpers apply wet plaster to the walls and then he
painted on the wet plaster. When the plaster dried the paint would get sucked
into the plaster sealing in the colors. If he couldn’t finish painting what was
plastered for the day they would have to scrape off the plaster and start
again.
The most amazing part of his paintings is how 3D they look
from the floor; I imagine that part of his skill must have come from the fact
that he was actually a famous sculptor. One of his best pieces he sculpted, and
the only piece he ever signed, is located in St. Peter’s Basilica. Known as Pietà (pity) it is of Mary holding the dead
body of Jesus. It was carved in 1499 when Michelangelo was only 24 years old.
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This is a good picture of what St. Peter's Basilica looks like from above |
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A courtyard at the Vatican |
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The stairway ramp to the exit of the Vatican museum |
After the chapel we started on our long walk back towards
our hotel. We decided to walk along the Tiber River on our way back until we
came to an area covered in trees with what sounded like thousands of birds.
Even though it was dark out the birds were squawking away, we put our hoods on
and ran through the area. I managed to not get hit somehow but Nate was hit a
couple times with some “droppings.” After that I decided we were not walking
along the river anymore, so we headed inward.
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St. Peter's Basilica at night |
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The path along the river |
I was hoping to find some place for dinner along the way,
but Nathan wasn’t really hungry. By the time we were almost back to our hotel
we still hadn’t eaten so we decided to see if we could find the pasta place
that had been recommended to us. We didn’t actually know the name of the place,
but he had circled on the map where we could find it. He said there is always a
long wait if you don’t have a reservation, but after walking to the location on
the map, we couldn’t find such a place . . . strike two. We finally decided on
a restaurant simply because I was hungry and very tired of walking.
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The Roman market at night |
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The Forum of Caesar Augustus |
The restaurant was decorated very creepy (baby dolls etc hanging from random places) so we decided to order 'safe' items. I ordered pasta, which wasn’t bad, and Nate got a steak. His
steak was the biggest thing I think I’ve ever seen, but it was about half fat, a third bone,
and turned out to be pretty under cooked. After trying really hard he found
about 4 edible bites of meat, so I guess it was a good thing that he wasn’t
super hungry.
To try wipe out of our memories the bad food of the day, and
help us forget about our tired feet after walking around 8 miles, we topped off
our trip with a scoop of homemade nutella gelato, which was very good!
Tuesday morning after we finished packing, we ate breakfast and then walked to the Termini Train station. It was spitting rain ever so lightly when we started walking but soon stopped, and by the time we got to the train station I was wanting to take my coat off.
We saw the shuttle bus just pulling up so we walked over to it. There was a guy trying to tell a couple of ladies that they needed to go stand over on the side walk, they needed to take the shuttle bus to the main airport and this was not their bus, but they didn't seem to understand. The guy was being a bit of a jerk and we weren't sure what we were supposed to do. We found some other guy working for the shuttle bus and he told us that we needed to have the desk check our tickets, even though we had already purchased tickets. Luckily that took only a few minutes and we were able to get on the bus.
As the bus drove to the airport we got to see all we missed when we arrived in the dark. We passed by some other ruins, including some aqueducts.
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Not sure what this sign is about, but we saw similar ones all over Rome |
We arrived at the airport 3 hours before our flight, which was plenty early, especially for a small airport. But we figured we would rather be early and make our flight than late and miss it, especially with RyanAir having so many regulations trying to make sure you will slip up so they can charge you extra.
When it finally came time to get on the plane we were forced to board the plane on the front (usually they allow boarding front and back). I wanted to walk towards the back as they usually have more open seats. As we were going to pass by the emergency exit seating we saw that there was twice as much leg room, so we sat there. We actually got lucky as some of the emergency seats were reserved, and many people who tried to sit in the other seats were told to move on. We also had the whole row to us, so lots of room made the 2 hour flight not bad at all.
This time I was able to really enjoy the view of the Swiss Alps as we flew over them on our way home, and we landed 20 minutes early.